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Photos by Valerie Tiscareno
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Opened in 2016, Essenziale’s innovative approach transformed Florentine culinary standards and expectations. The restaurant, divided into three distinct spaces, catered to a diverse clientele by offering casual dining, fine dining, and communal tables. Essenziale prided itself on providing “one venue, three spaces, and three different experiences,” reflecting Chef Simone Cipriani’s creative evolution and ambition.
We had the opportunity to sit down with Simone at the 2024 Tavola Latina Taco Party. During an interview in a quiet corner of the Lodge Club, Cipriani shared his inspirations and intentions behind Essenziale.
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“Our project, Essenziale, was born in 2016,” Cipriani explained. “The goal was to make fine dining accessible to everyone.”
Over the past eight years, Cipriani and Essenziale have witnessed significant changes in Florence’s culinary scene. The exponential increase in tourism has impacted various aspects of Florentine life, including its gastronomy.
“When we opened, the restaurant industry was very different,” Cipriani noted.
With Essenziale’s clientele now primarily composed of tourists and visitors, maintaining the restaurant’s original mission has become increasingly challenging in a constantly evolving market. In a July 9th interview with the prestigius Italian food magazine Gambero Rosso, Cipriani remarked:
“It is increasingly difficult to maintain ethics and integrity in the restaurant business. The demand has changed. Big cities are becoming a carousel for hit-and-run tourists. I understand that for some, it could be an opportunity, but it does not reflect my way of doing business, nor the evolution I had envisioned for Essenziale.”
Cipriani has decided that Florence’s tourist-driven culinary landscape is no longer something he wants to engage with. The tension between his ethical concerns and the rising number of tourists has led Cipriani to close Essenziale next month. Essenziale saw itself as having a “rebellious and creative soul, sometimes elegant, sometimes brutal.” This blend of rebellion, creativity, elegance, and intensity underscores why the restaurant will permanently close its doors on August 8, 2024.
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To celebrate the final days of Essenziale, Cipriani has planned a series of events from July 18 to August 6.
“I want to leave with a smile,” Cipriani said, “with a sense of lightheartedness, nothing sad or solemn.”
During this period, Essenziale will host various chefs and personalities associated with the restaurant, including Alberto Sparacino, Matteo Lorenzini, Daniele Bendanti, Gabriele Andreoni, Elisa Masoni, Francesco Berardinelli, Filippo Saporito, Julian Biondi, Gaia Nanni, and Pietro Spinelli. Each day will be celebrated with joy and lightness, inviting different people who have enriched Essenziale over the years to join the fun in the kitchen, dining room, and bar.
Cipriani’s commitment to sustainability was a significant aspect of his work at Essenziale. His focus on sustainable practices throughout his business endeavors inspired the creation of the Underground Good Food Mood project with Matteo Ercoli.
“This project is our main focus now, and it aims to highlight the stories of producers,” Cipriani said. “We no longer want to be chef or restaurateur rock stars. We believe the true rock stars of the future are the producers.”
The Underground Good Food Mood project seeks to enhance products and build a network of chefs, producers, customers, journalists, and bloggers dedicated to discussing sustainability. This proactive engagement allows Cipriani to preserve a culinary conservation aspect that tourism threatens to undermine.
“Sustainability,” Cipriani said, “is a term that many use without genuine commitment. We want to redefine it by focusing on real sustainability, which involves understanding where products and ingredients come from and supporting the producers and farms.”
Time is running out for those who wish to experience Cipriani’s culinary creativity, as Essenziale’s final day of operation is set for August 8th. From revival meals to blind tastings, Cipriani hopes the restaurant’s last month will be a period of celebratory reflection. Looking forward to the future while proud of his past achievements, Cipriani plans to continue advancing the mission of the Underground Good Food Mood project to promote sustainability in the culinary world.
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